Brunch in Paris - Coco&co

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Real brunch in Paris? With pancakes and fruit bowls and eggs any way you want them? Try this little eatery in the 6th Arrondissement (Saint-Germain). We went there a while ago, in March 2010, and enjoyed it. Plus it gets high points for its interior decor from me!

However, this place comes with some warnings:
1. book ahead. My sources tell me it is still full full full
2. I hear they have raised their prices. Not sure how much
3. The service is truly french. I.e., speak french! and be prepared that your order might get mixed up and /or could take a while. We were there with good company and did not even notice the wait.

I have also read the tripadvisor comments and they are horrible. I think completely unfairly but I promise to go check it out again next time we are in Paris and post an update after that.

derrière

Yes, another one of Paris...we just spent the weekend there...and we ate. And we ate well. This one is called derrière (at 69, rue des Gravilliers). In English: behind, backside, bottom...go to their website HERE and you are greeted by one.

P booked this place for us for Sunday brunch but it is also open for dinners, however it was impossible to get a dinner reservation on such short notice. I loved the place. The interior design makes it feel as if it was someone's home, complete with a dining room, living room, bedroom, etc. In the bedroom the tables are actually around the bed and you sit on the bed...

To find the place is a little bit tricky - another one of those "you need to know where you are going" places. The entrance is just a normal Paris door with no sign whatsoever for a restaurant. You push the large green door, your heart pounding...is this the right place? or am i breaking and entering? But fear not! Usually the door is open...

And as soon as you enter, you are in a wonderful courtyard. I must say, we went without our 1.5y old boy but it did seem that it would be an easy place to go to with children.

But we had booked a place inside. We were early - basically they were just opening when we arrived. And I was disappointed as they seated us, in nice big soft armchairs, but next to the entrance to the back room and next to the coffee makers...and juicers. Also, there were teeny tiny pieces of glass on one of the seats so we asked to change the table. It was not a problem and we got a nice table in the middle of the room. They persistently seated any couple who arrived in this horrible table that they first wanted us to sit at...I cannot understand why!?!? the second couple who was seated there actually left the restaurant...the third also asked to change the table and the fourth couple who unluckily got the table was stuck as by then the rest of the place was full. A word of the wise - when you book - ask either for a table upstairs (in the bedroom...wink wink:)) or the table next to the ping-pong table (where we sat)...just maybe say, that you do not want to sit next to the coffee maker!!! In all honesty, I think they should just get rid of that table and people would be happier all around!

Anyway, I am losing my thoughts here....

But here you see where we ended up sitting and a place we liked! Also you get a glimpse of the wonderful eclectic interior design.

Here is the coffee maker and juicers...

But let's get to the important part: food! The brunch menu is 35euros and consists of unlimited buffet, 1 cold drink, 1 hot drink, 1 starter and 1 main course.

P started with a mixed salad and I ordered melon. Ahhh, the wonderful taste! I honestly just expected pieces of melon but they completely surprised me by bringing melon that had been marinated in rose pepper and I believe rose oil and I have no idea what else. But the taste for me was completely new, interesting and unforgettable.

My main were roasted ribs and salad. Again, it did not disappoint. And then we raided the buffet. We were actually completely full by then but the buffet table was OH, SO PRETTY, and the huge selection of cakes and pastries and fruit was so welcoming that we completely buried ourselves under it. The food looked pretty but it also tasted good. So good that as I am writing this I can feel my mouth watering.To drink we both got fresh grapefruit juice and coffees.

The buffet

And finally...I often judge a restaurant by the facilities...and again, 'the behind' did not disappoint. See for yourself. Is this not just lovely?

A place to return. I want to find out what their dinner menu is like!!!

La crêperie Breizh Café

So, we rented an apartment for the weekend in Paris and the owner said that we should go to this restaurant Chez Nenesse. I usually do not trust these types of recommendations from hotels and apartment owners who say jus to go there and say that Louis sent you. But the reviews of this apartment all spoke highly of the restaurant recommendations and we needed something early, quickly and without reservation so we thought to give it a try. Just to find out that it is closed for this weekend.

Having no idea where to go and no reservation for Saturday evening we decided to go into the first place that we like. Beggars can't be choosers. We stumbled upon a completely innovative idea of a brasserie of Bretagne cuisine with Japanese influence: La crêperie Breizh Café (109 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris).

Mostly it was crêps with different condiments - salty and sweet. The crêpes themselves were wholewheat and of a completely different texture than one would imagine from a French crêpe. Like they say on their business card: "a different crêpe, a tradition renewed, creative. The condiments almost always included an egg and then something.

P took "Payasenne" - a crepe with onions, egg, sausage, cheese and something else that we cannot remember. I took a daily special - it had chanterelle mushrooms, smoked duck, egg, cheese and cabbage. Both were absolutely delicious. But I rush ahead as I forgot to mention the fresh out-of-this-world Bretagne oysters that are delivered each morning and today at least tasted of heaven (and seawater). I must say that the presentation got high score too: on a bed of salt and crushed ice.

As for eating they stick to various variations of the crepe then to drink they stick to various variations of the cider and drinks made of or with cider. We took a carafe of cider and it came in a beautiful earthware carafe together with a japanese inspired cone earthware cup. Additionally I tried an aperitif of cider with strawberry liquor and it was delicious.

I wish we had, but we did no make it til dessert. Our neighbours did and as they basically licked the plate afterwards I feel safe to say it must have tasted good. You could pretty much see and hear everything your fellow patrons did because the place was incredibly small, cosy and tight, with wonderful lighting. I think only 15 tables. You'd think it could bother you but instead it felt nice and not intrusive at all. Our neighbours happened to be an elderly worldly couple who struck up a conversation with us immediately. We were lucky as it turned out that the lady knows the owners and she was able to give us the entire history plus a recommendation of a teeny tiny B&B that they run in Bretagne. The guy literally looked like he had just stepped out of a Woody Allen movie. He must of been at least 80 years old but I am pretty sure they were there on a date. They spoke french, italian and he spoke american english - we found out that he is a real old-school banker. Like the one they write books about.

I loved it there! But as a recommendation I think the mere fact that most (if not all) crepes had egg on them I would suggest going there for brunch instead of dinner.


PS. Also look for the Breizh Café in Cancale (7 quai Thomas) and their 4 bedroom hotel where the view is supposed to be spectacular over the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel. We certainly want to try once we go there.